The emerald cut is not a brilliant cut, but is called a step cut which means it has rows of facets. Step cuts are comprised of larger facets which act like mirrors and resemble a staircase, hence the name step-cut.
An emerald cut diamond appears stunning due to the long lines, broad, flat planes and stepped corners. It has a total of 58 facets-8 girdle, 25 pavilion and 25 crown. The pavilion is cut using rectangular facets which gives it a different look. Due to the open large facets, flaws and weakness of color in the diamond can be noticed easily and they also appear less brilliant. Therefore, while purchasing an emerald cut diamond, it is advisable to select one with a depth range of 58% to 69% and a length-to-width ratio of 1.5:1.
Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance and fire than the other brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic beauty and elegance not seen in other cuts. The look of an emerald cut diamond is subtle and understated with less "flash," or reflection and refraction than brilliant cuts.
Rectangular emerald cuts are historically more popular than square-cut. The emerald cut can be one of the least expensive to cut because its shape is most like the natural shape of the rough diamond crystal. With ample supply of larger-size emerald rough, larger emerald cut diamonds are often lower price than similar quality and carat weight stones in other shapes.